Fomabrom Variant III
bleach #1 (2% solution) 2½ min
toner #1 30 sec
dyeing of the gelatine cleared
in a weak sulphuric solution
|Compared to the untoned print the densities of the shadows are decreased. The contrast of the print is not satisfying.
Depending on the duration, after-treatment in a weak ammonia solution changes the colour to pure blue or magenta. At first, the densities of the black areas increase. Only after longer times of treatment - starting from the highlights - the print loses saturation and density. After around 30 seconds the colour has a strong tint towards red. If you stopped the process now, the colour would shift a bit back to its original tone. If you want the print to appear as in the photo to the left 50-60 seconds of treatment is necessary.
|Fomabrom Variant III
bleach #1 2½ min
toner #2a 30 sec
With this toner you will also get a yellow tint on both sides of the print. to the left: print cleared in sulphuric acid.
The colour of the highlights does not differ much from the example above. All in all toning resulted in a darker image with a better contrast. The surface of the print is more lacklustre in the toned areas than on the white image border.
|Fomabrom Variant III
bleach #2 30 sec
toner #3 ferrous sulphate 30sec
Colour after drying: blue-green
After a couple of hours of exposure to light the print darkens and the colour shifts to a purer blue.
(bleach #3 and toner #3)
If you bleach this paper (!) for only 30 seconds to preserve the shadows in an as deep black tone as possible (similar to sulphur toning), you get an unexpected - and here undesired - effect when toning in ferric sulphate. The shadows increase with a completely dull surface. On the transition to the mid tones you get a solarisation-effect and the highlights tone blue with a glossy surface.
A check-up in a different bleach and toner combination results in the expected effect.
|bleach #2 30 sec
toner #2 30 sec
Using the same times of treatment as above, but in a different combination of bleach and toner, everything works as expected.
After bleaching for 30 seconds, the deep shadows remain. Toning is spotless, the brilliance is preserved and the white image border is only slightly yellow. A short bath in water that is slightly charged with citric acid will clear the whites.
Adox Fine Print Vario Classic
The neutral tone VC-bromide silver emulsion of Fotokemika gives good toning results with all formulations. It also darkens down quite a lot.
The Somerville Toner
(bleach #3 and toner#3)
right: bleached for 90 seconds
left: bleached for 30 seconds
both toned for 60 seconds
left: the colour just after drying.
further down below: the change after exposure to light.
|Kentmere Fineprint VC
bleach #2 bleached almost completely
toner #2a ferric sulphate
Here as well, the print darkens a little bit afterwards. Colour saturation of the highlights decreases and the shadows become deeper.
bleach #2 for 60 seconds
left #2a ferric sulphate
right #2b ammonia ferric sulphate
Top right: the content of acid is as high as specified in the instructions. Below right: acid is reduced to half. Apparently, you need a particular content of acid to fully depict high densities. An increase of the duration of toning does not change the result. The deep shadows are not reached by the toner.
||Exposed to light, warmtone papers darken down a lot.
The test on Select Ivory (PW17) - in bleach #2
left: toned in ferrous sulphate
right: toned in ammonia ferric sulphate
The light blue stripes show the colour right after drying. These parts were covered while the test strip was exposed to direct sunlight for 3 hours.
Bromide silver paper also darkens down. The tone, which was originally bright blue and too light compared to the untoned print, turns considerably darker. Colour intensity decreases.
This paper also shows its definite colours and densities only after longer exposure to daylight.
Left: The scan just after drying.
Below left: After one hour exposure to direct sunlight.
Below right: Different combinations of bleach and toner do not lead to a substantially different effect. Only the tint changes slightly.
bleach #1 (2% 90sec) toner #1
bleach #2 (60sec) toner #1
|For comparison: the effect of my direct toner MT7.
The range of contrast is higher. With the same density in the highlights, the shadows are darker than with indirect toning and also darker than the untoned print.
The Dmax reading supports this visual impression.
Kentmere Kentona in SE4 NEUTRAL 2min
|Ilford MGIV tones light blue with reduced density in the shadows. It only adopts a less intense, but very pleasant colour when darkened down by exposure to light. The mid tones appear clear blue, without any trace of green and the highlights show a whiff of magenta.
90 seconds of bleaching reaches only as far as the mid tones. After toning, only the bleached areas show a light blue tone. If the print is not thoroughly rinsed immediately, you can observe in the first rinse water that the toning process increases in the shadow areas that have only been slightly bleached - especially when the rinse water is slightly acidic.